Is the leading Toyota Camry resource for technical DIY guides. The last thing you want to do is to strand yourself because of a broken timing belt or busted water pump. For the full step-by-step instructions, please visit Many Camry owners dread the 60,000 mile marker because of the costly timing belt and water pump recommended maintenance interval. You will be overjoyed with the money you kept in your wallet and a real sense of accomplishment when this DIY job is finished. The task is an arduous one that will take six or more hours.

The cost for supplies will set you over $250. You'll need a floor jack, jack stands, catch pan, shop rags, ratchet, sockets, wrenches, pulley kit, stud removal tool, and camshaft adjuster kit. Step 1 – Jack up the Front End Use your hydraulic floor jack to raise up the front end and place on jack stands. Be sure to use the correct locations for lifting and placement of the jack stands.

Turn the crankshaft to align the timing marks and set cylinder No.1 to Top Dead Center (TDC) for the compression stroke. The white mark on the crankshaft pulley should align with the pointer on the timing belt cover. The words UP embossed on the camshaft pulley should be aligned in the upward position and the marks on.

Never work under your vehicle using only a floor jack for support; always use the jack stands and chock the rear wheels, both in front and behind them, unless you are lifting the entire vehicle and using all found jack stands. Step 2 – Disconnect the battery Lift the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Step 3 – Remove passenger Tire It is easier if you loosen the lugs before lifting the car and then remove them after the car is in the air. Step 4 – Drain Engine Coolant Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. Replace the plug when finished.

You will also want to drain it from the engine block as well by removing the two drain plugs on the bottom front and rear of the engine. Replace the plugs and be careful not to over-tighten when you screw them back into place. Step 5 – Remove torque strut Remove the torque strut, also known as the dog bone, due to the shape and size.

Step 6 – Remove A/C and Power Steering Belts Behind the passenger wheel is an access panel that is held in place by two 10 mm bolts. Remove the bolts to get access to the air conditioning and power steering belts.

Use a wrench on the tensioner pulley to create slack in the belts and remove each belt. Step 7 – Remove torque strut On the right side of the bracket is a bolt that is used to pivot the bracket for positioning. Just loosen this bolt. Remove the nut positioned to the left and down a little from the pivot bolt. Once the nut is removed, the mounting bracket can be swung up and out of the way. Two bolts are used to adjust the tension on the belt. They are at 90 degrees in relation to one another.

Sinano Ac Servo Drive on this page. They both need to be loosened. The tensioner bolt on the left hand side is difficult to get to.

Loosen the adjustment bolts just enough to move the tensioner and create slack to remove the alternator belt. Step 8 – Remove Crank Shaft Bolt Put a long-handled wrench or breaker back onto the bolt and secure it to something solid that will not move. Step 9 – Remove Crank Shaft Pulley If you are extremely lucky, the pulley will come off by hand once you remove the two smaller bolts that hold it in place.

You will want to use a pulley removal kit that can be had pretty cheaply. Other types of pulleys use metal grippers that can damage the teeth of the pulley.

Step 10 – Remove Timing Belt Covers Remove the four 10 mm bolts holding the lower timing cover in place. Set this aside. Remove the timing belt guide. Make sure to mark its orientation to the engine block. Zip Code Msa Crosswalk Community.

Loosen the 10 mm timing belt plate bolt. Turn the plate 90 degrees and re-tighten the bolt so you won't misplace it. Remove the five 10 mm bolts holding the upper timing belt cover in place and set this aside. Step 11 – Remove Right hand mounting bracket With the special stud pulling kit: Remove the two bolts and nuts that hold the bracket in place.

Place the correct stud puller socket onto the stud and remove it. Step 12 – Remove timing belt Before you remove the timing belt, you will have to line up the crank and camshaft positions to TDC or the position. Replace the crankshaft bolt without the pulley and crank it until the marks like up to the TDC position. You may want to use something to make the marks more noticeable and mark their position on them.

You will line the new belt up with both of these marks. Once the marks are lined up, remove the two timing belt tensioner bolts; remove the tensioner and the belt. VISIT FOR STEPS 13-15 of this DIY JOB.

I made a timing belt change yesterday on my 2000 Avalon. It was my first on a V6 and the first on this car. I bought it w/ 110K miles, so it was due.

The car runs perfectly, but its throwing the P1346 code. I'm not surprised about the code, but I am surprised that it runs so smoothly. Could the code be a result of an older belt that was stretched when I took it off?

That is, could the code be showing up after I put on a belt correctly if the other belt was stretched a bit? (I'm reaching a bit on that theory, I bet.) Code P1346 indicates a VVT issue (surprise!) from Bank 1. What is bank 1? Does that indicate which pully is off? I had a hard time telling where the alignment mark for the rear cam pully.

Can someone describe where the mark is? Is there a line in middle off the extended lip that I see, or is there a notch like there is for the front pully? Aside from getting back in there and rechecking everything, does anyone have some advice on what to do now? I assume it shouldn't be too hard to see what pully (or pullys) is off if I know where the rear mark is. Can my Actron tool let me know what I need to do?

Thanks very much for the time and help. I've learned a ton from your forum (and the Camry forum, of course.) KG. Sorry to bring back this crazy old thread, but I wanted to finish the solution. I should have done this a long time ago. Everyone was right, I was off a tooth on the rear cam. Fixing it was much really easy compared to a full timing belt change. The crankshaft pulley and lowest timing belt cover did not have to be removed.

The issue (originally) was that I didn't remove the wiring harness from all the places that it attachs to back timing belt cover. Doing that allows an easy view of the back notch. That made it easy to confirm the issue and make the fix.