Celestion S10 Subwoofer Manuals
I have had one of the 2010 subs in storage until recently but decided to maximize living space and replace the Paradigm PS1000 that I have used for a few years. The sub was set up to use the auto power feature but this seemingly is not working as it should; it doesn't come on immediatley, a test of music with strong bass didn't turn it on at all.
Switching it to manual 'on' is OK but I don't want to leave it on all the time. Does anyone have any clues as to a particular setting I should set? The Paradigm behaved fine and may have to go back.
I have had one of the 2010 subs in storage until recently but decided to maximize living space and replace the Paradigm PS1000 that I have used for a few years. The sub was set up to use the auto power feature but this seemingly is not working as it should; it doesn't come on immediatley, a test of music with strong bass didn't turn it on at all. Switching it to manual 'on' is OK but I don't want to leave it on all the time. Does anyone have any clues as to a particular setting I should set? The Paradigm behaved fine and may have to go back. Click to expand.I am not familiar with the 3500 but certainly, the earlier models have a 'Ground in/out' switch.
I presume the 3500 doesn't have this? By all means try disconnecting the earth pin to see if that cures the problem but be aware that this then presents a real safety hazard. You will have no protective earth conductor. Apart from that provided by the interconnecting cable screen which can be removed.
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Your Yamaha will be a 'Class 2' device which is safe without a protective earth. Your HTPC and 3500 will be 'Class 1' (Class 1 insulation requires that the metal body and other exposed metal parts of the device is connected to earth via a 'grounding' wire which is earthed at the main incomming supply terminal) The safe way to acheive this is to incorporate a few components within the 'offending' unit to 'lift' the earth and still maintain the protection from a Line to earth fault. There is a very good article here which explains things well, together with the circuitry. Click to expand.Hi Tony, The auto/manual switch is the cause of many problems with the PSW series subs. Although one would assume that its function is to automatically switch-on the power to the amplifier on receipt of an input signal, it does nothing of the sort. It merely operates a speaker mute when there is no signal. The amplifier remains powered, getting hot and wasting energy.
(One may also ask why the speaker needs to be muted if there is no input signal?) Ask Kef! So disregard it.
Leave it on manual. Switch the power off with the on-off switch. I have a Celestion S10 sub which seems the same Amp as the Kef 2010 and after very little use it blown. I'm so annoyed that its out of warranty and I think Kef/Celest should be fixing them all as they were obviously faulty from new. I only use it a few times a year!
On inspection of the Amp board there are quite a few burnt / melted resistors and those white box resisters have both twisted. So is it too badly damaged? It smells pretty bad too! Sadly I am not up to fixing myself but could anyone else help to save me having to buy another Sub?
I'd happily pay for a repair if likely to fix it. My last resort would be to make it into a passive sub as the speaker seems ok? I have a Celestion S10 sub which seems the same Amp as the Kef 2010 and after very little use it blown. I'm so annoyed that its out of warranty and I think Kef/Celest should be fixing them all as they were obviously faulty from new.
I only use it a few times a year! On inspection of the Amp board there are quite a few burnt / melted resistors and those white box resisters have both twisted. So is it too badly damaged? It smells pretty bad too!
Sadly I am not up to fixing myself but could anyone else help to save me having to buy another Sub? I'd happily pay for a repair if likely to fix it. My last resort would be to make it into a passive sub as the speaker seems ok? Click to expand.Strange, its in my 'sent mail' and didn't bounce. This is what I sent. ---------------------------------- Hi Harvey.
I wouldn't dismantle it any further. I need the amp.
Plate complete to make sure the whole thing is tested properly after repair. If you've had a look at the T&C, then by all means send it off. Let me know when its on its way and when I can expect it.
I use Parcel2go.co.uk and DHL 48hr service. The basic insurance is £50 so its up to you whether you insure it for more. I usually insure for £100 as this will buy you a second-hand sub if they loose it! What were the symptoms of the fault? Frank Contact me direct, the email address is on the top of the T&C pdf. Edit: the reply was sent to your york.gov address.
Advent 5301 Sound Drivers Windows 7. Subwoofers are typically easy to connect, given that there are usually only two cords to deal with: one for power and one for the audio input. You're far more likely to spend the bulk of time than actually plugging in a pair of cables. However, not all subwoofers are so simple and straightforward, depending on the specific model (and maybe some personal experience). There are a few ways that one can expect to connect a subwoofer to an amplifier, receiver, or processor (also known as a home theater receiver).
The most common method is done by connecting the subwoofer to the SUB OUT or LFE output of a receiver/amplifier. But you might also come across a subwoofer that uses stereo RCA or speaker wire connections. If your receiver or amplifier has enough variety, you should be able to handle most any subwoofer out there. We have a that should clear up any confusion.
Low Level Inputs (left) and Speaker Level Subwoofer Input Jacks (right). Gary Altunian The preferred method of connecting a subwoofer is through the Subwoofer Output (labeled as 'SUB OUT' or 'SUBWOOFER') of a receiver using an LFE ( an acronym for Low-Frequency Effects) cable. Almost all home theater receivers (or processors) and some stereo receivers have this type of subwoofer output. The LFE port is a special output only for subwoofers; you'll still see it labeled as 'SUBWOOFER' and not as LFE. 5.1 channel audio (e.g. Media found on DVD discs or from cable television) has a dedicated channel output (the '.1' part) with bass-only content that is best reproduced by a subwoofer.
Setting this up merely requires connecting the LFE (or subwoofer output) jack on the receiver/amplifier to the 'Line In' or 'LFE In' jack on the subwoofer. It's usually just one cable with single RCA connectors on both ends. Sometimes you'll find that a receiver or amplifier does not have the LFE subwoofer output. Or it might be that the subwoofer doesn't have the LFE input.
Instead, the subwoofer might have right and left (R and L) stereo RCA connectors. Or they could be spring clips like you'd see on the back of standard speakers. If the subwoofer's 'Line In' uses RCA cables (and if the subwoofer out on the receiver/amplifier also uses RCA), simply plug using an RCA cable and choose either the R or L port on the subwoofer. If the cable is split on one end (a y-cable for both right and left channels), then plug in both. If the receiver/amplifier also has left and right RCA plugs for subwoofer output, then be sure to also plug in both. If the subwoofer features spring clips in order to use speaker wire, then you can use the speaker output of the receiver to hook it all up. This process is the same as.
Be sure to mind the channels. If the subwoofer has two sets of spring clips (for speaker in and speaker out), then it means that other speakers connect to the subwoofer, which then connects to the receiver to pass along the audio signal. If the subwoofer has only one set of spring clips, then the subwoofer will have to share the same receiver connections as the speakers.
The best way to accomplish this is by using banana clips (versus overlapping bare wire) that can plug into the backs of each other.